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冰室&茶餐廳:(三)細牌與大牌的過去
July 9, 2021

☕️🧇上回提到,冰室和茶餐廳之間的分別,早期兩者連牌照上也有所不同。今次我們嘗試拆解現時最常見的可供堂食的兩種飲食牌照。

「細牌」/

當時冰室的牌照與現時小食食肆牌照類似,俗稱「細牌」,與普通食肆牌照一樣可以堂食,但只可售賣《⼩⻝⻝肆獲准烹製及售賣的⻝物》內所列明的“已預先製作”的⻝物。持有細牌的食肆只准烹製及售賣被規定的六種類内其中一種。

「大牌」/

相反,普通食肆牌照又稱「大牌」,只要不是售賣受限制的食品,例如壽司🍣、生蠔🦪等,准許持牌人基本上是沒有限制的,而且食客也可以堂食。

茶餐廳牌照/

衛生局 於1960年設立了「茶餐廳牌照」,但現時已被廢除。有關牌照的特性和廢除的原因,我也沒有太多資訊,我嘗試聯絡過相關部門但都空手而回。然而我們相信現時所有茶餐廳領取著普通食肆牌照。若讀者們知道這些歷史和條例,不妨與我們分享。今時今日的冰室/現時大部份的所謂冰室也領取着「普通食肆牌照」。除了裝修外,實際上他們所提供的食品與普通茶餐廳沒有太大的分別。所以現在我走進冰室,吃的主要是當年環境氣氛的感覺,食物種類和質素是次要的。

Types of restaurant licenses/

As mentioned last time, in the 1980s and early 1990s, the licences of traditional “Bing Sutt” and “Cha Chaan Teng” were different. Today let’s illustrate the two most common catering licenses which are available for dine-in service.

“Small license"/

In the earlier stage, the “Bing Sutt’s” license was similar to the current light refreshment restaurant license, commonly known as "small license". It allows dine-in service but strictly restricted the food items that the licensee can prepare and sell for consumption, only one group of the food items as stated can be chosen.

“Big license”/

On the contrary, ordinary restaurant licenses are known as "big license." As long as licensee does not sell restricted food items, like sushi and oysters,  that require a specific permit, the licensee basically can sell anything and is also available for dine-in.

“Cha Chaan Teng’s” license/

This license was established in 1960 by the former Health Bureau but has now been suspended.  And we believe all Cha Chaan Teng in Hong Kong nowadays have a general restaurant license. Detailed information and the reasons for its suspension are hard to find, so if you know anything about the history and regulations, please do not hesitate to share them with us.

Today’s “Bing Sutt”/

Basically, most of the so-called “Bing Sutts” are now holding general restaurant licenses.  Except for the decoration, their menu is more or less the same as ordinary “Cha Chaan Teng”. For me, when I now walk into Bitt Sutt, what I am enjoying the most is the taste of time rather than the taste of food.

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罐頭食品(二):豆豉鯪魚的姻緣
#我港生活 #lifestyle_kongcept 豆豉與鯪魚的邂逅/ 隔離期間食太多午餐肉?由細食到大嘅豆豉鯪魚呢?1893年,第一罐豆豉鯪魚在廣洲廣茂香罐頭廠面世。這可追溯十九世紀時,依水為生的珠三角勞工,偶然發現鯪魚的甘鮮和豆豉的咸香十分配合。豆豉、鯪魚和調味料的配方一直長相廂守至今,你能想像一樣的味道能流傳百年嗎? 雖說豆豉鯪魚起源於廣州,但絕對不輸午餐肉的「頹人恩物」,美味的鯪魚加上豆豉汁撈飯可能是很多香港人的日常,它的味道也讓很多移居外國的香港人回憶家鄉的感覺。在疫情如此嚴重的時刻,跨境運輸的阻礙更令它的價錢一度上調至💰50元!!!祝願大家仍能在超市找到罐豆豉鯪魚😂 百年不變的制作方法/ 豆豉味滲進魚肉,魚汁浸泡豆豉,互為融合,但其實制作過程中,豆豉和魚是入罐後才相遇的。首先將豆豉入罐,再把解凍好的魚乾和調料液里浸泡一定時間,他倆才能相遇,最後注入精煉豆油。一罐豆豉鯪魚在高溫消毒後便成香氣與味覺滿分的完成品。 The encounter of tempeh and dace/ Beside spam, canned “Dace in Tempeh” is an other top can food in Hong Kong. In 1893, the first can was launched at a factory named 廣茂香 in Guangzhou. Tracing back to the 19th century, when workers in the Pearl River Delta who depended on the water for a living, accidentally discovered that the sweetness of dace and the salty aroma of tempeh go very well together. Then the recipe passed down for a hundred years… Although Dace in Tempeh originated in Guangzhou, having a bite of delicious Dace in Tempeh with rice is the daily life of many Hongkongers and the taste of it may even recall the feeling of home when you away. Nevertheles, its price increased to 💰HKD50 per because of cross-border transportation issue. Hope that everyone can still find cans of Dace in Tempeh in the supermarket 😂 The production method that has not changed for a hundred years / First put the tempeh in the can, then soak the thawed dried fish and seasoning liquid for a certain period of time before they are canned together, and finally inject refined soybean oil. After a can of tempeh dace is sterilized at high temperature, it becomes a finished product with perfect aroma and taste.
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冰室&茶餐廳:(三)細牌與大牌的過去
☕️🧇 上回提到,冰室和茶餐廳之間的分別,早期兩者連牌照上也有所不同。今次我們嘗試拆解現時最常見的可供堂食的兩種飲食牌照。 「細牌」/ 當時冰室的牌照與現時小食食肆牌照類似,俗稱「細牌」,與普通食肆牌照一樣可以堂食,但只可售賣《⼩⻝⻝肆獲准烹製及售賣的⻝物》內所列明的“已預先製作”的⻝物。持有細牌的食肆只准烹製及售賣被規定的六種類内其中一種。 「大牌」/ 相反,普通食肆牌照又稱「大牌」,只要不是售賣受限制的食品,例如壽司🍣、生蠔🦪等,准許持牌人基本上是沒有限制的,而且食客也可以堂食。 茶餐廳牌照/ 衛生局 於1960年設立了「茶餐廳牌照」,但現時已被廢除。有關牌照的特性和廢除的原因,我也沒有太多資訊,我嘗試聯絡過相關部門但都空手而回。然而我們相信現時所有茶餐廳領取著普通食肆牌照。若讀者們知道這些歷史和條例,不妨與我們分享。 今時今日的冰室/ 現時大部份的所謂冰室也領取着「普通食肆牌照」。除了裝修外,實際上他們所提供的食品與普通茶餐廳沒有太大的分別。所以現在我走進冰室,吃的主要是當年環境氣氛的感覺,食物種類和質素是次要的。 Types of restaurant licenses/ As mentioned last time, in the 1980s and early 1990s, the licences of traditional “Bing Sutt” and “Cha Chaan Teng” were different. Today let’s illustrate the two most common catering licenses which are available for dine-in service. “Small license"/ In the earlier stage, the “Bing Sutt’s” license was similar to the current light refreshment restaurant license, commonly known as "small license". It allows dine-in service but strictly restricted the food items that the licensee can prepare and sell for consumption, only one group of the food items as stated can be chosen. “Big license”/ On the contrary, ordinary restaurant licenses are known as "big license." As long as licensee does not sell restricted food items, like sushi and oysters, that require a specific permit, the licensee basically can sell anything and is also available for dine-in. “Cha Chaan Teng’s” license/ This license was established in 1960 by the former Health Bureau but has now been suspended. And we believe all Cha Chaan Teng in Hong Kong nowadays have a general restaurant license. Detailed information and the reasons for its suspension are hard to find, so if you know anything about the history and regulations, please do not hesitate to share them with us. Today’s “Bing Sutt”/ Basically, most of the so-called “Bing Sutts” are now holding general restaurant licenses. Except for the decoration, their menu is more or less the same as ordinary “Cha Chaan Teng”. For me, when I now walk into Bitt Sutt, what I am enjoying the most is the taste of time rather than the taste of food.
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奶茶:(一)愛上絲襪
愛上絲襪 🦵🏻☕The silk stocking fantasy~ 奶茶聯盟/ 泰國有泰式奶茶,台灣有珍珠奶茶,印度有香料奶茶,香港呢?港式奶茶又名為絲襪奶茶,作為香港非物質文化遺產,它以港式奶茶製作技藝被歸類為傳統手工藝。嘆一杯絲襪奶茶,憑:色、香、味、口感、回甘和故事。絲襪奶茶的馥郁芳香反映了香港中西文化的交融與發展。​ 中西交融/ 港式奶茶的原型為英式奶茶,於港英時期,英國人喜歡使用錫蘭(現稱斯里蘭卡)的紅茶加糖和鮮奶飲用,但當時英式奶茶大多使用貴價材料,只有達官貴人才可以在高級西餐廳享用,味道較絲襪奶茶清淡。事至大約於二次大戰後,喝奶茶的文化才漸漸普及化,當時政府為解決市民的就業和飲食需要,發出眾多大牌檔牌照,使服務基層市民的大牌檔等食肆興起,從中脫穎而出的便是於1952創立的「蘭芳園」,其創辦人為林木河先生,或稱絲襪奶茶之父。 絲襪奶茶的雛形源於林先生於三角碼頭(香港的第一個碼頭)的一個偶遇,話說當時他正學習調配英式奶茶,獲一位剛上岸的海員贈送錫蘭紅茶葉後他開始細心鑽研,首創以體積較小的銅製梯壺沖茶以減少苦味,然後利用林太自製的高密度白布茶袋濾走茶渣以令奶茶更香滑。經重複使用後的白布袋染上茶漬而顏色變黃,加上其彈性仿如女性用的絲襪,因而被當時的一些咕喱(Collie) 命名為「絲襪奶茶」。與英式奶茶相比,絲襪奶茶採用更濃的紅茶葉並以淡奶代替鮮奶泡製。 Milktealogy/ Thai milk tea, bubble tea, chai milk tea or the Silk Stocking Milk Tea from Hong Kong? The making of the HK-style milk tea requires traditional craftsmanship which is one of the HK Intangible Cultural Heritages, its fragrant taste and smooth texture are the basis of this signature drink. And the history behind has made it become the perfect icon of the integration of eastern and western culture in HK. Origin and the Cultural Integration/ In the era of British Hong Kong, the British “afternoon tea” culture has come along, serving a black tea with fresh milk is the golden rule. Initially, it is only shared among the upper class of society, and until the end of the second world war, it started to gain popularity. At that time, the government established a large number of the cooked-food stall (Dai Pai Dong) licenses to settle public chaos and needs, and provided a chance for the growth of local food and beverage industry. Remarkably, there is a standout Dai Pai Dong named Lan Fong Yuen whose founder is the father of the Silk Stocking Milk Tea - Mr.Lam. The Silk Stocking Milk Tea is made by blending at least three types of Ceylon tea leaves with different coarseness and replacing fresh milk with evaporated milk to balance the bitter taste. Crucially, a customised sackcloth bag made by Mrs.Lam is used to filter tea leaves for a smoother texture. Since the black tea dyed the frequently used bag and it has an elastic texture, some fans dubbed it the name Silk Stocking. . . #lifestyle_kongcept #我港生活 #kongcept #我港 #絲襪奶茶 #生活品味 #hkmilktea #silkstocking #milktea
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罐頭食品(一):午餐肉的港式生活
#我港生活 #lifestyle_kongcept 午餐肉的港式生活 - 疫情良物🥲🥩 午餐肉的一段風光史/ 午餐肉源自於美國,由Jay Hormel在1937年發現,取名為大家很熟悉的SPAM。當時正值經濟大蕭條,Jay 將豬肉、鹽、水和馬鈴薯澱粉製造成午餐肉。因為加入了硝酸鈉,所以才會呈現出我們平常看見的粉紅色。雖然午餐肉是較平宜的食物,但是只有中產及富豪階層才會常吃,也只有他們才吃得起午餐,當時他們的午宴(Luncheon)流行吃SPAM,因此SPAM又稱為Luncheon Meat(午宴吃的肉)。 美國傳到冰室 - 餐蛋麵的日常🍳/ 午餐肉很快就流傳到英國,他們將午餐肉配搭生菜薯仔沙律。但這個飲食文化並沒有傳入香港(好彩冇咋!)。在50年代,冰室盛世的時期,廉價又方便的午餐肉成為了冰室的囊中物,加入荷包蛋、兩條菜和即食麵,制作成平宜又飽肚的餐蛋麵。直到現在,餐蛋麵成為香港人的最懶之選和Comfort Food,如果你說你只識煮餐蛋麵,多會被冠上「你根本就唔識煮野食」之名。 但其實午餐肉要煎得好吃也很講究!首先午餐肉就像牛排,肉排必須保持外層焦香與內部軟嫩多汁,切的厚度約5毫米。 注意午餐肉本身已附有很多油份,所以落少量的油即可,然後煎到兩邊金黃色。(你唔好煎午餐肉都煎濃啊XD) 附上餐蛋麵食譜(希望大家都唔需要😂),一齊捱過第五波疫情! PS: 正在強制家居隔離中🥲
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香港農曆新年: 盆菜起源
🧧我港拜年/ “我港仝人向各位拜個年,祝大家牛年快樂、百毒不侵、心想事成,新一年我港會繼續努力,以更引人入勝的表達,為你帶來更豐富的內容。” Bio有link:🧧 https://payme.hsbc/kongcept852🧧 歡迎各位善長人翁獻出一點點的支持與愛心❤️ 利是可以寫上你對我港的期待或意見~ ——————————————————————————— 香港人的那兩個新年/ 🎆 👫🏻👨🏼‍🤝‍👨🏻10 9 ...3 2 1 新年快樂!! 🧨 👨‍👩‍👦🏠恭喜發財身體健康...x 100times 基於香港獨特的歷史背景,慶祝兩次新年已是屬於香港人的一套文化,雖然兩者的意義有所不同但於香港皆受到重視。港英年代時,雖然 #西曆新年 作為節日登陸了香港,但港英政府並沒有干預當時的傳統習俗,更於1965年起,每逢農曆新年前夕都會有港督發表新年賀詞,孕育出中西文化交融的環境。香港人慶祝西歷新年是現代化和社會的體現,獨立性較高,作為生於香港的都市人,經歷了一年的 #最長工時 後與愛人和朋友狂歡並發洩出所有壓力,然後1月1日為自己訂立新一年的Smart Goal和人生計畫。相反, #農曆新年 則注重傳統習俗、信念和親情,並為新一年作準備。由「年廿八,洗邋遢」到「年三十團年」和「年初一拜年」等等,雖然習俗較多但當中所有活動都是以「家」為單位。即使你不相信某些習俗背後的寓意,這些都是和家人親戚共處的好機會。🌃😢如你曾到外國留學或工作,身處異地,你最想念家的日子就是農曆新年時份。大家適逢農曆新年請好好與家人共度時光。 香港農曆新年,飲食/ 作為全世界華人的節日,不同地方都有着不同的慶節食品,而香港許多賀年食品的由來都是源於粵語的諧音。例如年糕,顧名思義有着年年高的意思,男女老少都適用,而在職認識會希望事業更上一層樓,小朋友則祈求快高長大。另外,髮菜蠔豉正是寓意發財好市,有別於一般賀年食品原來這個菜式並不油膩,而且營養價值更頗高,髮菜高鐵高鈣高蛋白而蠔豉有着多種良好氨基酸有助去除體內有毒物質,有助預防動脈硬化。 至於🥘 #盆菜 呢?這是 #香港飲食文化 ?!盆菜起源 於南宋末年,宋帝與多名大臣南下時來到香港新界圍村,當時他們飢餓萬分,村民得知皇上到來不敢怠慢,於是各家各戶拿出各自最好的食材。但由於時間緊急,一時三刻沒有足夠的盤碟承載食物供給多人享用,村民於是利用洗衣服的木盤作為代替,把所有食物一同放進去,成為「盆菜」。時至今日每逢有喜慶活動,圍村的村民都會聚在一起吃盆菜,成為香港獨有的文化。加上今年受疫情所影響,團年及農曆新年大家都未能夠外出當食,不少食肆也推出盆菜,方便大眾與家人慶節。 #我港 #kongcept #我港生活 #農曆新年 #西曆新年 #香港文化 #傳統 #利是 #家 #祝福 #恭喜發財 #盤菜 #圍村 #身體健康
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歎一杯好的咖啡或茶的同時,你有嘗試感受四周的空間和氣氛嗎?☕ A cup of good coffee or tea is not just about its quality, but also the atmosphere! 🎁送禮遊戲!看第四頁指引 以「鴛鴦」命名由咖啡混合奶茶而成的港式飲品,是取自其物種的特性,雌雄有著截然不同的外貌卻能共處,正如中西文化在港融合。每個香港人平均只有2.8平方米的居住面積,咖啡店和茶室是他們重要的社交場所,建築設計公司 Building Narrative @building_narrative 把「鴛鴦」延伸成「穿梭於香港每個角落的咖啡店與茶室」,探討他們在香港的社會角色。 香港人IG的saved post塞滿各式的咖啡店與茶室,每逢假日都愛到「打卡Cafe」chill一chill,約會、思考、看看街上的人、物和事。其實咖啡店與茶室是紮根於社區的公共空間,透過設計和環境營造出能促進人交流的氣氛。 //那麼...你知道你口中的Chill是源自哪裏嗎?// //每間別樹一格的Cafe或Tea House蘊藏了甚麼設計意圖?// 「鴛鴦」的作者拜訪了25間咖啡店與茶室,透過訪談形式深入認識了每個地方的故事與設計含意,利用故事陳述與設計構想角度,幫助讀者認識設計背後的意圖、感受空間的意義。書中除了看似普通的街坊聚腳點,亦有備受注目的項目,例如由國際著名建築公司OMA設計的 K11 Musea KUBE 。 //致建築師、設計師、香港人:// //讓我們感受這一波咖啡店與茶室的浪潮吧! 也千萬別忘了感受生活! // 🎁 📖《我港 Kongcept》Giveaway!!!📖 🎁 Step 1 - 留言分享一個你最印象深刻的香港咖啡店和茶室 + Tag至少兩位朋友 Step 2 - 分享這個post到story,tag @yuen_yeung and @kongcept852 Step 3 - Follow Kongcept 然後把story截圖DM給 @kongcept852 💛我們會當中揀選兩位幸運兒送上新書一本,並被邀請到下星期三的新書會💛 Purchase Link: https://www.buildingnarrative.com/store ‘’ Yuen Yeung’’, by Building Narrative, is a book that illustrates and presents coffee and tea houses in HK through story-telling and from a design perspective. While Cha Chaan Tang has always been the favourite spot for the locals, in light of its efficiency and unfussy everyday meal, modern coffee shops and tea houses offer something that goes well beyond traditional eateries or drinking places. They create a space that becomes the new amenities of our local communities and plays a part in fulfilling new-gen HKers’ pursuit of lifestyle and wellbeing. For the owners of the coffee and tea houses that are featured in this book, their vision have created a network of amenities all over the territory for fellow HKers to enjoy. 🎁 📖《我港 Kongcept》 Giveaway !!!📖 🎁 Step 1-Comment to share your impressed coffee and tea houses in HK + Tag at least two friends Step 2-Share this post to IG story, tag @yuen_yeung and @kongcept852 Step 3-Follow us and screenshot the story and DM to @kongcept852 💛 We will select two winners to give out a FREE book and be invited to their book launch on next Wednesday 💛
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《我港 Kongcept》批鬥大會 2021【 5/8:紅豆西多,香港人的下午 @kongcept852】 ***31/12投選你最喜歡的貼文種類*** 關於 #我港生活 #lifestyle_kongcept 💬//我港從生活和飲食入手,探討香港人間的微妙連結。無形的種種讓我們產生“共鳴”、“安心”,而一切其實有跡可尋。// 香港人的滿分下午 💬//紅豆冰配西多士係定律!// / 跟大家分享過,傳統冰室是屬於較高級的場所,蘊含的文化內容包括下午茶、咖啡廳、舊香港的社會環境等等...冰室的招牌菜式,香港人最渴求的下午茶,非紅豆冰和西多士莫屬!兩者都是源於香港的冰室,極具本土風味! 紅豆冰/ 說到豪華高級的港式飲品,童年時的最愛,一定是始於香港冰室的「紅豆冰」- 像是冰室化後的紅豆沙。把綿綿的紅豆、白滑的三花淡奶、涼透心的碎冰放進高身的蓮花杯,再用長長的鐵匙搞拌,把紅白色分明的它混合成紫紅色,大吸一口...簡單的快樂和治癒感。傳統紅豆冰多從大冰塊刨出碎冰製作飲料,但因成本較高而被淘汰,並以製冰機造的冰粒或碎冰代替。當然,在香港無法自行製冰的年代,紅豆冰是格外珍貴的飲品。有別於大x樂之流,上水的「廣成冰室」創立於1962年, 四個大字的招牌、通透的門面、天花板的大風扇、還有招牌紅豆冰!3/5杯的豆紅色+1/5杯的奶白色+1/5利用古董刨冰機手刨出的刨冰柱,6/70年代的傳統冰室味道透入你心。 西多士/ 西多士HK French Toast,原型大概是歐洲流行的法蘭西多士French Toast,分別在於前者是「炸」香夾層中有花生醬的兩塊麵包,塗上牛油和糖漿(有茶餐廳會加入火腿)食用;後者是「煎」香一塊塊的麵包,配上糖漿或水果等食用。西多士實際的歷史故事無從得知,但French Toast的製作手法原是為了善用不新鮮麵包而出現的一條妙計。對於某些老一輩,最著緊的可能還是那英國出品的高級糖漿,那份港英時期的味道。 💬//有人話我知邊到嘅西多士好食就好啦😚// Cover Photo📷: @mr_nkf The best 2-Course Tea Set/ Talking about a perfect authentic taste at the Bing Sutt, “HK French Toast” and “Red Bean Ice” form a destined set. Both of them originated in the Bing Sutt industry of HK. Given the high calories and memories that Hongkongers had with them, they can offer you the most authentic taste of HK. “HK French Toast” is a twist from the classic French toast in Europe, except in a sandwich form that is traditionally stuffed with peanut butter (sometimes with condensed milk or ham) and deep-fried. Then, served with a glaze of syrup and butter on top. On the other hand, traditionally, “Red Bean Ice” consists of 3/5 cup of red bean, 1/5 cup of evaporated milk, and hand-shaved ice. #我港 #kongcept #西多士 #紅豆冰 #冰室 #茶餐廳 #下午茶 #FrenchToast #廣成冰室
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好的咖啡或茶不僅只著重質素,還有氣氛和環境!
好的咖啡或茶不僅只著重質素,還有氣氛和環境! ☕️ A cup of good coffee or tea is not just about its quality, but also the atmosphere! 「鴛鴦」由建築設計公司 Building Narrative 出版的書。他們希望透過故事陳述與設計構想角度去介紹香港的茶舍與咖啡廳。雖然茶餐廳向來「快、靚、正」的賣點,一直都穩固地作為香港人用餐的首選,但新式的茶舍與咖啡廳不僅僅是提供飲食的地方,而成為了我們新的社區休憩空間。作者希望透過這本書讓讀者認識每個茶舍與咖啡廳經營者的理念其實構成了一個新的社區休憩網絡。致建築師、設計師、香港人:讓我們感受這一波茶舍與咖啡廳的浪潮吧! 也千萬別忘了感受生活! 請稍移玉步先去看看他們的IG,「鴛鴦」的實體書很快就會面世! ‘’ Yin Yeung’’, by Building Narrative, is a book to illustrates and presents tea house and cafes in Hong Kong through story-telling and from a design perspective. While cha chaan tang has always been the favourite spot for the locals, in light of its efficiency and unfussy everyday meal, modern coffee shops and tea houses offer something that go well beyond traditional eateries or drinking places. They create a space that become the new amenities of our local communities and play a part in fulfilling new-gen HKers’ pursuit of lifestyle and wellbeing. For the owners of the coffee shops and tea houses that are featured in this book, their vision have together created a network of amenities all over the territory for fellow HKers to enjoy. This is not only a book for architects and designers; it is a present for all HKers who have immersed themselves in this new wave of coffee and tea culture, and who totally enjoy it. As starter, enjoy their Instagram introduction of each tea house or café! The book will be released very soon! #kongcept #我港 #yinyeung #hkcafe #hkteahouse
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