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茶餐廳: (二) 香港生存食糧
June 17, 2021

今天的香港,冰室 和 茶餐廳 遍佈街頭小巷,但兩者有甚麼分別?上回談到傳統冰室只能販賣飲品和小吃,打造《港式優雅生活》。今日繼續旅程,認識茶餐廳...

茶餐廳=餐廳+冰室/

隨著中西方文化的融合,冰室的數量節節上升,而50年代香港經濟「火箭升空」引致「西餐館」和「咖啡室」變得更普遍;市民消費能力更高;飲食界變化與競爭更激勵。傳統冰室行業承不上這枝火箭,落後於大市。為了生存,店主們設法納入餐廳元素,售賣中西小炒以及各種飯類,開拓新戰線 - 《打工仔生存食糧》。傳統冰室行業於60年代開始正式面臨建構性壓力,大部份只領「小牌」的冰室已於80-90年代式微,而隨社會演變應運而生的便是 -《茶餐廳》。

👨:「幾多位?依到啦!」

(啪啪,夥計放下兩杯清茶)

👨:「想食咩?」

☕冰室有冰,茶餐廳有茶,每間茶餐廳都會為客人奉上清茶(Local Tips:香港人不會喝),食品種類應有盡有,除冰室之選外,更提供中西式正餐如燴意粉、碟頭飯(蓋飯)、粥麵etc。香港經典食品如沙爹牛肉麵和蛋撻亦是來自茶餐廳。作為冰室的變體,茶餐廳有別於街邊的大牌檔,於舊時屬中檔食肆,配有妥當的裝修和較整潔的環境。據說1946年的蘭香閣茶餐廳是第一間以茶餐廳命名的鋪;而政府衛生局則於1960年才新設了「茶餐廳牌照」,第一個牌照由「漁利泰茶餐廳」獲得。時至今天,很多市肆都以「冰室」為名作招徠,但實際與茶餐廳無明顯差別,皆以茶餐廳形式營運。

🇭🇰香港象徵/

傳統冰室的一杯冷飲一碟小吃,為香港人提供生活中的調製,展示出香港中西文化的交匯 ;

而茶餐廳則支撐著香港人的的日常飲食,盡顯香港人努力和 #平靚正 的精神。兩者都伴隨香港人的生活而生,與香港人的生活和香港歷史不可分割。茶餐廳食物配搭多變而且份量十足,是普羅大眾的食堂,由落單、上菜、到結帳,最緊要快!果腹後繼續工作!回應著一項傳說:「香港人最喜歡工作、最勤力、最高效率。」

A blend of Bing Sutt and Restaurants/

The word-word translation of Cha Chaan Teng is “Tea Restaurant”, while they would greet customers with a cup of tea (Local Tips: Hongkongers won’t drink it) and you can enjoy a decent Silk-stocking Milk Tea. Cha Chaan Teng and Bing Sutt are not the same but connected. While traditional Bing Sutt can only serve drinks and snacks(can ref. to previous post), Cha Chann Teng provides a full and wide range of F&B.

👨: "How many people? Sit here la."

(Waiter puts down two cups of tea)

Today, traditional Bing Sutt is rare and most of them are operating as a Cha Chaan Teng. Looking back to the 50s, the number of Bing Sutt peaked, when the rocketing period of HK economy boosted citizens' purchasing power and caused the number of "western restaurant" and "cafe" to increase, the catering industry became too competitive for Bing Sutt to survive. Therefore, Bing Sutt owners expanded their service spectrum by adding Chinese and Western main courses to their menu and created authentic HK dishes like Satay Beef Noodles. Instead of the cafe vibe of Bing Sutt, Cha Chaan Teng is more like the "Survival Kit for Workers". The govt. established an official "Cha Chaan Teng” License in 1960.

Cha Chaan Teng supports the daily diet of Hongkongers, demonstrating the general 3E desire of the city: economic, efficient, effective .HKers love working?

DID YOU KNOW ?
MILK TEA IS THE SPIRIT OF YOUNG TEENAGER OF HONG KONG
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🧐Kongcept 飲品大全/ 每次步進港式咖啡室/餐廳,你只會叫奶茶、咖啡還是檸檬茶?可惜!…香港地道飲品其實五花八門。 入門:黑與白的大戰/ 「呵瀝&華田」(Holicks&Ovaltine)兩者都是麥芽飲品,雖然不是本土特產但經過年月的洗禮,現已成為大眾的兒時回憶,茶餐廳更會把兩者混合為兒童或黑白鴛鴦,一句到尾,呵瀝更好飲! 初級挑戰:汽水/ 各種外國引入的汽水也被香港人玩弄於股掌之間,像雞尾酒般調配。源自70年代尾的忌廉溝鮮奶,必須先把牛奶倒進杯然後才加入當時稱為荷蘭水的玉泉忌廉;熱檸樂煲薑,這是一種是香港一種民間食療,因舊時的公共醫療體系尚待發展完善,難以負擔診金的市民便希望以此治療感冒。雖然其藥效不明,但暖水和薑至少可以紓緩發冷及喉嚨不適。 中級挑戰:走/ 絲襪奶茶是香港之光,而茶走是它的演變體,據說從前食客害怕奶茶加入砂糖會惹痰,所以店家開始以煉奶代替砂糖,成為「茶走」,漸漸更出現鴦走和華田走等等的煉奶飲品。 地獄級:滾水蛋/ 這是只有老牌餐廳才會提供的飲品,做法是把一顆生蛋雞打進一杯滾燙的熱,攪拌開來後再加上砂糖調味。古曰,雞蛋進水有如「跳海」;蛋白花開彷如「袈裟」,輕飄落下;蛋黃之圓滑,就如「光頭」。這飲品又名為「和尚跳海」。由於舊時香港物資匱乏,「滾水蛋」是當時的一款營養食品。 愛我請分享/ 融合、創新、演變、再創新,被外國朋友問及香港文化時,大家都理應可以滔滔不絕的自豪地介紹。喝哪種飲品?如何品嚐一杯絲襪奶茶?如何用廣東話下單?這些話題都已足夠打動你的外國朋友,試利用一個下午茶的時間去介紹,你好 鍾意的香港。 Kongcept Drink Menu/ Are milk tea, coffee or coke always your choices of drinks? Shame, you are missing out a lot... Beginner Challenge: Soda/ There are different kinds of soda mocktail in HK. For instance, adding preserved limes and fresh lemon into 7up is the summer cure. Health-wise, boiling Coca Cola with ginger and lemon is a kind of folk diet therapy in old HK. When the public medical system has yet to be well developed, citizens who cannot afford the consultation fee would try to treat flu with this drink, although its efficacy is not proved, it at least relieves sore throat. Intermediate Challenge: “走jau2”/ Silk stocking milk tea is the pride of HK, and when you replace the evaporated milk and sugar in it with condensed milk, it becomes “茶走cha4 jau2”. In the past, diners were afraid that adding sugar to milk tea would cause phlegm, so the store began to replace sugar with condensed milk. Likewise, adding the word “走” at the end of any HK local beverage could means the use of condensed milk. Boss: Monk Jumping into the Sea/ This is a drink that only the oldest HK restaurants can offer, it’s made by adding a raw egg into a cup of boiling water. Egg yolk represents the shiny bald head of the monk and egg white that spread over the water is like the monk cassock. This drink was treated as a power drink for the lower-class. Complicated yet Loveable/ Learning but not blindly pursuing; harmonious but diversified. The concept of Yin Yeung represents the culture of HK.
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罐頭食品(一):午餐肉的港式生活
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罐頭食品(二):豆豉鯪魚的姻緣
#我港生活 #lifestyle_kongcept 豆豉與鯪魚的邂逅/ 隔離期間食太多午餐肉?由細食到大嘅豆豉鯪魚呢?1893年,第一罐豆豉鯪魚在廣洲廣茂香罐頭廠面世。這可追溯十九世紀時,依水為生的珠三角勞工,偶然發現鯪魚的甘鮮和豆豉的咸香十分配合。豆豉、鯪魚和調味料的配方一直長相廂守至今,你能想像一樣的味道能流傳百年嗎? 雖說豆豉鯪魚起源於廣州,但絕對不輸午餐肉的「頹人恩物」,美味的鯪魚加上豆豉汁撈飯可能是很多香港人的日常,它的味道也讓很多移居外國的香港人回憶家鄉的感覺。在疫情如此嚴重的時刻,跨境運輸的阻礙更令它的價錢一度上調至💰50元!!!祝願大家仍能在超市找到罐豆豉鯪魚😂 百年不變的制作方法/ 豆豉味滲進魚肉,魚汁浸泡豆豉,互為融合,但其實制作過程中,豆豉和魚是入罐後才相遇的。首先將豆豉入罐,再把解凍好的魚乾和調料液里浸泡一定時間,他倆才能相遇,最後注入精煉豆油。一罐豆豉鯪魚在高溫消毒後便成香氣與味覺滿分的完成品。 The encounter of tempeh and dace/ Beside spam, canned “Dace in Tempeh” is an other top can food in Hong Kong. In 1893, the first can was launched at a factory named 廣茂香 in Guangzhou. Tracing back to the 19th century, when workers in the Pearl River Delta who depended on the water for a living, accidentally discovered that the sweetness of dace and the salty aroma of tempeh go very well together. Then the recipe passed down for a hundred years… Although Dace in Tempeh originated in Guangzhou, having a bite of delicious Dace in Tempeh with rice is the daily life of many Hongkongers and the taste of it may even recall the feeling of home when you away. Nevertheles, its price increased to 💰HKD50 per because of cross-border transportation issue. Hope that everyone can still find cans of Dace in Tempeh in the supermarket 😂 The production method that has not changed for a hundred years / First put the tempeh in the can, then soak the thawed dried fish and seasoning liquid for a certain period of time before they are canned together, and finally inject refined soybean oil. After a can of tempeh dace is sterilized at high temperature, it becomes a finished product with perfect aroma and taste.
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罐頭食品(一):午餐肉的港式生活
#我港生活 #lifestyle_kongcept 午餐肉的港式生活 - 疫情良物🥲🥩 午餐肉的一段風光史/ 午餐肉源自於美國,由Jay Hormel在1937年發現,取名為大家很熟悉的SPAM。當時正值經濟大蕭條,Jay 將豬肉、鹽、水和馬鈴薯澱粉製造成午餐肉。因為加入了硝酸鈉,所以才會呈現出我們平常看見的粉紅色。雖然午餐肉是較平宜的食物,但是只有中產及富豪階層才會常吃,也只有他們才吃得起午餐,當時他們的午宴(Luncheon)流行吃SPAM,因此SPAM又稱為Luncheon Meat(午宴吃的肉)。 美國傳到冰室 - 餐蛋麵的日常🍳/ 午餐肉很快就流傳到英國,他們將午餐肉配搭生菜薯仔沙律。但這個飲食文化並沒有傳入香港(好彩冇咋!)。在50年代,冰室盛世的時期,廉價又方便的午餐肉成為了冰室的囊中物,加入荷包蛋、兩條菜和即食麵,制作成平宜又飽肚的餐蛋麵。直到現在,餐蛋麵成為香港人的最懶之選和Comfort Food,如果你說你只識煮餐蛋麵,多會被冠上「你根本就唔識煮野食」之名。 但其實午餐肉要煎得好吃也很講究!首先午餐肉就像牛排,肉排必須保持外層焦香與內部軟嫩多汁,切的厚度約5毫米。 注意午餐肉本身已附有很多油份,所以落少量的油即可,然後煎到兩邊金黃色。(你唔好煎午餐肉都煎濃啊XD) 附上餐蛋麵食譜(希望大家都唔需要😂),一齊捱過第五波疫情! PS: 正在強制家居隔離中🥲
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罐頭食品(二):豆豉鯪魚的姻緣
#我港生活 #lifestyle_kongcept 豆豉與鯪魚的邂逅/ 隔離期間食太多午餐肉?由細食到大嘅豆豉鯪魚呢?1893年,第一罐豆豉鯪魚在廣洲廣茂香罐頭廠面世。這可追溯十九世紀時,依水為生的珠三角勞工,偶然發現鯪魚的甘鮮和豆豉的咸香十分配合。豆豉、鯪魚和調味料的配方一直長相廂守至今,你能想像一樣的味道能流傳百年嗎? 雖說豆豉鯪魚起源於廣州,但絕對不輸午餐肉的「頹人恩物」,美味的鯪魚加上豆豉汁撈飯可能是很多香港人的日常,它的味道也讓很多移居外國的香港人回憶家鄉的感覺。在疫情如此嚴重的時刻,跨境運輸的阻礙更令它的價錢一度上調至💰50元!!!祝願大家仍能在超市找到罐豆豉鯪魚😂 百年不變的制作方法/ 豆豉味滲進魚肉,魚汁浸泡豆豉,互為融合,但其實制作過程中,豆豉和魚是入罐後才相遇的。首先將豆豉入罐,再把解凍好的魚乾和調料液里浸泡一定時間,他倆才能相遇,最後注入精煉豆油。一罐豆豉鯪魚在高溫消毒後便成香氣與味覺滿分的完成品。 The encounter of tempeh and dace/ Beside spam, canned “Dace in Tempeh” is an other top can food in Hong Kong. In 1893, the first can was launched at a factory named 廣茂香 in Guangzhou. Tracing back to the 19th century, when workers in the Pearl River Delta who depended on the water for a living, accidentally discovered that the sweetness of dace and the salty aroma of tempeh go very well together. Then the recipe passed down for a hundred years… Although Dace in Tempeh originated in Guangzhou, having a bite of delicious Dace in Tempeh with rice is the daily life of many Hongkongers and the taste of it may even recall the feeling of home when you away. Nevertheles, its price increased to 💰HKD50 per because of cross-border transportation issue. Hope that everyone can still find cans of Dace in Tempeh in the supermarket 😂 The production method that has not changed for a hundred years / First put the tempeh in the can, then soak the thawed dried fish and seasoning liquid for a certain period of time before they are canned together, and finally inject refined soybean oil. After a can of tempeh dace is sterilized at high temperature, it becomes a finished product with perfect aroma and taste.
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冰室: (一) 舊香港優雅生活
🧊冰室是否屬於香港?/ |雖然|冰室這個詞可能並不是由香港創造,|但是|港式冰室是屬於香港的。 冰室與廣州或上海的冰廳相類似,同樣是東西文化交匯的產物,會售賣冷飲及雪糕等小食,但兩者有著關鍵性的分別。港式冰室的 #Kongcept 源自香港的獨特環境和社會狀況,而內容亦與廣州的冰室有所不同,當中涉及以下的題目: 1)英式下午茶文化和英式咖啡室; 2)製冰業的興起; 3)香港自創的Fusion飲食 🇭🇰冰室起源/ 港式冰室於戰後的香港興起,冰室早期的主要客源為受西方文化薰陶的白領。港式冰室的起源可以追溯到英國維多利亞時代,當時的Coffee Shop及Tea House如雨後春筍般開業,加上製冰技術面世,英國的下午茶文化以及咖啡廳形式漸漸傳到香港,平民咖啡室因而出現 - #港式冰室。聽說最早的冰室出現於20年代,但資料已經難以追尋,只知道由40年代開始廣為人知,而50-60年代為冰室的盛世。 早港英時期,西式餐點只能在稱為「西菜館」或「餐室」的高級西式餐廳嚐到,價錢非一般人能承擔。直至二次大戰後,市民對西式食品的好奇,引致40年代初「冰室」的冒起,提供價錢較便宜的「彷西式食品」。由於冰室只持有市政局辦發的「小食菜館牌照」(小牌),只可以提供飲品和輕食如三文治,不能明火賣飯。有一些冰室更會配搭烘製麵包拍照。 🧊何謂啊「冰」?最緊要正/ 舊時候的廣州很流行「飲冰」這個詞,意指「喝冷飲」,而喝冷飲的店便稱之為「冰室」,據說名字背後與清未民初的中國思想家梁啟亦有關...詳情暫且不說。回望香港,其實除了冰室,還有相類似的業務被稱為咖啡店、咖啡廳、茶冰室等等,象徵著一樣的 #kongcept 。除了仿西方咖啡室外,與香港的社會狀況亦有密切關係,舊時候一般香港家庭負擔不起冷氣機或雪櫃的價錢 ,香港的冰室見機創造了各種冰凍飲品如紅豆冰作為招徠,再配上天花板的大吊扇為客人送爽。所以冰室曾經算是一種較高級的場所,屬於香港人的一種優雅生活態度~ 下回續...🔔 Bing Sutt - A blend of Western and Eastern culture/ The word-for-word translation of Bing Sutt is “Ice Room”; it, traditionally, is only allowed to serve drinks and light meals due to its license. It is characterised by its hanging fans, iced drinks, and Eastern-Western fused beverages and foods. It began by targeting white-collar workers who were fascinated by the Western culture. Tracing back to the Victorian era in England, when the advent of ice making technology, the British afternoon tea culture, and coffee shops have spread to HK. The HK-style ice room imitates the high-end cafe in the western restaurant. They have been widely known since the 1940s, and the 50-60s were the flourishing age of Bing Sutt. In the early days of British-HK, Western style meals can only be tasted in high-end Western-style restaurants and the price was not affordable for ordinary civilians. Until the Second World War, the public's curiosity about Western-style food led to the emergence of "Bing Sutt" in the early 1940s, creating a series of fusion food & beverages that fit the locals’ appetite, acting as cheaper alternatives to western-style food. Bing Sutt is named when the average family cannot afford to pay for an air conditioner or refrigerator. To be continued…🔔 📸: @mr_nkf
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奶茶:(二)品味奶茶
品味奶茶🏝️Luxurious Milk Tea 習以為常的錯/ 有時候對茶餐廳不能要求太多,但有一杯好飲的絲襪奶茶絕對係點綴! 絲襪奶茶已有多年歷史,由50年代藍領階層的恩物變成照顧全香港市民的獨特文化。發展至今,絲襪奶茶於香港已經隨處可見,不論是日式餐廳或以港式奶茶為招徠的店鋪層出不窮,奶茶雪糕,奶茶爆谷,奶茶味乳清蛋白…縱使有金茶王大賽或港式奶茶機械人等相關事物,但針對奶茶本身的發展還是較遜色。「絲襪奶茶已是香港最多人喝的飲品,你還要求什麼?」,無可否認,香港人每年對奶茶的消耗量高達9億杯,但習以為常換來的會是價值的下降和冷漠的對待,比起作為一杯跟餐的免費飲品,絲襪奶茶值得擁有更多。 絲襪奶茶的調配很講求多階段的技巧,一沖、二焗、三撞、四回溫為基本的沖茶步驟。作為靈魂的茶膽則以三到六種不同粗幼的茶葉拼成,粗茶香氣濃郁而茶色清澈;幼茶色澤較深而茶味最濃;至於中粗茶的質素則較平均,用作平衡茶膽。箇中的學問為此飲品增添了一定的價值,有很大的進步和發展空間。或許絲襪奶茶可以代替咖啡,成為你和我的生活品味,手工絲襪奶茶店於世界偏地開花亦非空想。先生小姐,請問想要咖啡或茶? Taste of HK Lifestyle/ Silk Stocking Milk Tea has now become the most famous and sometimes complimentary beverage in Hong Kong, from the energy drink for blue-collar workers in the 50s to a necessity for every Hong Konger. In recent years, it even bloomed as a gimmick in different areas, silk stocking milk tea flavoured ice-ream, popcorn, whey protein powder, the sky is the limit. However, the study and development of the milk tea itself are lost behind, despite there are even related competitions such as the KamCha. Although Hong Kongers drinks 900million milk tea every year, it is actually being treated as a super ordinary drink as people don't value the things they get for free. Making a decent cup of Silk Stocking Milk Tea requires different techniques, with proper blending and selection of tea leaves and evaporated milk, you enjoy the perfect balanced milk-rich layers of tastes. Silk Stocking Milk Tea has a high potential, decent cupping and tasting are granted, let us stay tuned for the bloom of Silk Stocking Milk Tea industry. I don’t need a Barista, I want a Milkteaista! . . 📷 @mr_nkf . #lifestyle_kongcept #我港生活 #kongcept #我港 #絲襪奶茶 #生活品味 #hkmilktea #silkstocking #milkteaalliance
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《我港 Kongcept》批鬥大會 2021【 5/8:紅豆西多,香港人的下午 @kongcept852】 ***31/12投選你最喜歡的貼文種類*** 關於 #我港生活 #lifestyle_kongcept 💬//我港從生活和飲食入手,探討香港人間的微妙連結。無形的種種讓我們產生“共鳴”、“安心”,而一切其實有跡可尋。// 香港人的滿分下午 💬//紅豆冰配西多士係定律!// / 跟大家分享過,傳統冰室是屬於較高級的場所,蘊含的文化內容包括下午茶、咖啡廳、舊香港的社會環境等等...冰室的招牌菜式,香港人最渴求的下午茶,非紅豆冰和西多士莫屬!兩者都是源於香港的冰室,極具本土風味! 紅豆冰/ 說到豪華高級的港式飲品,童年時的最愛,一定是始於香港冰室的「紅豆冰」- 像是冰室化後的紅豆沙。把綿綿的紅豆、白滑的三花淡奶、涼透心的碎冰放進高身的蓮花杯,再用長長的鐵匙搞拌,把紅白色分明的它混合成紫紅色,大吸一口...簡單的快樂和治癒感。傳統紅豆冰多從大冰塊刨出碎冰製作飲料,但因成本較高而被淘汰,並以製冰機造的冰粒或碎冰代替。當然,在香港無法自行製冰的年代,紅豆冰是格外珍貴的飲品。有別於大x樂之流,上水的「廣成冰室」創立於1962年, 四個大字的招牌、通透的門面、天花板的大風扇、還有招牌紅豆冰!3/5杯的豆紅色+1/5杯的奶白色+1/5利用古董刨冰機手刨出的刨冰柱,6/70年代的傳統冰室味道透入你心。 西多士/ 西多士HK French Toast,原型大概是歐洲流行的法蘭西多士French Toast,分別在於前者是「炸」香夾層中有花生醬的兩塊麵包,塗上牛油和糖漿(有茶餐廳會加入火腿)食用;後者是「煎」香一塊塊的麵包,配上糖漿或水果等食用。西多士實際的歷史故事無從得知,但French Toast的製作手法原是為了善用不新鮮麵包而出現的一條妙計。對於某些老一輩,最著緊的可能還是那英國出品的高級糖漿,那份港英時期的味道。 💬//有人話我知邊到嘅西多士好食就好啦😚// Cover Photo📷: @mr_nkf The best 2-Course Tea Set/ Talking about a perfect authentic taste at the Bing Sutt, “HK French Toast” and “Red Bean Ice” form a destined set. Both of them originated in the Bing Sutt industry of HK. Given the high calories and memories that Hongkongers had with them, they can offer you the most authentic taste of HK. “HK French Toast” is a twist from the classic French toast in Europe, except in a sandwich form that is traditionally stuffed with peanut butter (sometimes with condensed milk or ham) and deep-fried. Then, served with a glaze of syrup and butter on top. On the other hand, traditionally, “Red Bean Ice” consists of 3/5 cup of red bean, 1/5 cup of evaporated milk, and hand-shaved ice. #我港 #kongcept #西多士 #紅豆冰 #冰室 #茶餐廳 #下午茶 #FrenchToast #廣成冰室
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